You know how when a movie or concert or some sort of activity gets really hyped up, it almost never lives up to its expectations? Well, surfing is nothing like that. The hype is deserved.
This Saturday a friend and I took a two hour lesson at Sumner Beach, followed by two hours where we were free to continue using the surf boards (and wetsuits). We learned some of the basic theory and technique on land and then pretty much jumped right in! Our instructors fit the “surfer” stereotype so perfectly it was almost comical. They were really top notch though.
Fighting the waves for almost four straight hours was exhausting and surfing in general is a terrific workout – two days later and I’m still a bit sore and exhausted! I really loved it, and it was fun talking to some of the other people in the lesson – like everything else in Christchurch, a mix of locals and travelers. Conditions were a bit messy and the beach was quite crowded, but the feeling of being chased by a wave but then standing up and riding its power back to shore was both calming and invigorating at the same time.
So my first time surfing and simultaneously my first swim in the Pacific Ocean were quite a success! The weather was perfect too – sunny and probably the hottest day of the year so far (although I’m sure we still wouldn’t have lasted five minutes in the water without the wetsuits). I wish I had some pictures, but my phone and possessions were locked in the car during the lesson. Maybe next time!